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The problem with wrinkle removers. There are literally tens of thousands of wrinkle removal products for both women and men. The problem with most wrinkle removers is that they are formulated for light (or white), dry skin. They exfoliate the skin of the face to lift and separate flakes of dead skin that keep wrinkles tight, causing just a little inflammation in the process.
In skin with deeper and rich pigments, such as skins of people whose origins are in the Middle East, Latin America, Africa, or Asia, inflammation causes pigmentation. Wrinkles are removed, but age spots replace them!
Vitamin E to the rescue. That's why vitamin E moisture creams are so useful for persons who have darker skin pigments. Vitamin E moisturizes the skin, making it more supple and flexible, allowing wrinkles simply to fall out of the skin. But it also stops the inflammation that creates freckles and age spots and, in African-American skin, permanent black, prominent melasma that can be just as cosmetically challenging as the wrinkles they treat.
If you have dark skin, think B, not C. Many vitamin E moisture creams for wrinkles combine vitamin E ascorbate with a highly absorbable form of vitamin E known as ascorbyl palmitate. This form of vitamin C goes into the skin to do its work as an antioxidant, kept charged by the vitamin E. But if you have darker skin tones, vitamin C can also be mildly inflammatory. Inflammation is something you just don't want for darker skin.
That is why the best cosmeceuticals for darker skin tones combine vitamin E with two forms of vitamin B, vitamin B3 and B5, also known as niacinamide and panthenol. The first thing you need to know about these two ingredients is that there are some people who shouldn't use them, either. If you have an allergy to vitamin B, which is rare, you really should not be putting this product on your face. Test a tiny spot of skin on your arm or wrist overnight to make sure any product you plan to use won't cause you to break out.
In tests with women in India, the combination of vitamin B and vitamin E:
That last characteristic is especially important because of the tendency of other wrinkle creams to leave spots. The only problems with this treatment were a tendency toward dryness in about 10 per cent of users, but that is easily prevented by a nightly application of an alcohol-free, water-based moisturizer. This formula proved especially helpful for users who had both wrinkles and rosacea.
Where can you find vitamin E for wrinkles formulated with vitamin B? Some popular products include B & C Skin Tight, which is popular with African-American women, and Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Moisture-Enhancing Gel, which works with all skin types, especially after you have been using a vitamin C (ascorbyl palmitate) cream that proved to be a little too strong. Your skin needs a lot more vitamin B, by weight, than vitamin E, so look for B vitamins first on the label.
Biro K, Thai D, Ochsendorf FR, Kaufmann R, Boehncke WH. Efficacy of dexpanthenol in skin protection against irritation: A double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Contact Dermatitis 2003;49:80-4.
Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, Chhoa M, Matsubara A, Miyamoto K, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol 2002;147:20-31